K A A V U - A Mystical Journey

After a strenuous week, today was one of the refreshing days of my life which I would treasure for all time. Not because today was my 25^th birthday! I was neither partying nor cutting the birthday cake… But it was altogether an unforgettable day!

With GOKUL

Gokul was on-time at the rendezvous, glad to see his new bike and his everlasting smile. I followed him and we drove few miles east through the steep roads that wind up-hill, it was small but refreshing. The sunset, dark clouds, lightning and the sounds of thunder, scenic beauty of the valley and the thin strand like roads down the hill were all mesmerizing. We sat there for some time enjoying the nature’s beauty, clicked few pictures and a selfie- the new culture we are following!!! .

Drove down-hill crossing the paddy fields, narrow roads and a long bridge. It was drizzling by the time we reached his Tharavadu (ancestral home). It would be more than sixty years old but still had its splendor. A big backyard with lot of trees, sounds of crickets, dim lights in the portico, his grandmother reciting prayers and his niece playing around welcomed me. We sat for some time and I could see that only few family members stayed there and felt a mystical silence around me. His grandmother was reluctant to let us go out due to the bad weather. But neither her words nor the thunders could stop us because I was about to witness one of the traditional rituals ‘Sarpam Thullal (Dance of Snakes)’.

The journey to his maternal home was haunting. May be due to my inexperience as a travelor or due to the thundurshowers or rugged landscape. The roads were so steep and muddy, the heavy rains made it slushy and difficult for the ride. It took nearly an hour for us to reach the place because of many stops we made due to the heavy rains. The absence of light through those roads was so complete that even the shadows didn’t survived…

The sounds of the percussion instruments were heard half a mile before and I was able to see the temple lights and the temporarily erected Pandals for the rituals. I was relieved after reaching the destined place. We walked through the muddy water that covered the whole front yard of his maternal home.

A man in his fifties, carried a smile in his white bearded face while welcoming me to his home. His dad was simple but had a graceful face unlike my friend. After a formal introduction to his mother and sisters, we went to the temple to see the rituals.

       


A big banyan tree, a thick foliage made of creepers, climbers clambering up the tree as strong as the trunk of it had demarcated the Sarpa Kavu (Snake Shrine) from rest of the place. Under the tree stood the deities of Nagadevatha (Goddess of snake), the place believed to be inhabited by snakes.
" The mud lamps, the thick foliage, the deities bathed in turmeric powder, a well believed to be used by snakes all invoked my spiritual self and the confluence of nature and faith were so strong that it could not be ignored."

A Pandal has been erected and the people concerned of the family hosting this ceremony were engrossed in making the aesthetic “Kalam” and other arrangements for the ritual. I was awestruck when I saw the kalam and amazed at the artistic skills of the people who drew such humongous art forms with color powders, flowers, turmeric powder and leaves of plantain, betel, arecanut and pookulas and many more. Each symbol in the kalam conveys a meaning and had symbols of 8 serpents and was called as AshtaNagakalam. "The ritual to appease God and for the welfare and prosperity of the family".

ASHTA NAGA KALAM

                              Many kids watched it with utmost curiosity. Families get-together and cherish their memories, have fun and make it memorable. All festivals or traditional customs are for that, to make everyone stand united. I got that feel under the roof. A temporary “oottupura” was made next to this place and a Sadhya (banquet) was served to all. I was feeling ravenous and took little time to empty the plantain leaf. It was a complete diet and felt contented rather than feeling tired after having a big buffet filled with red meat and fried eatables.    

        

                        Rains receded and clouds cleared their way to the crescent moon and stars. The time was ticking to eleven at night and I could see few kids already dozed off at their mother’s lap. But I was with full energy clicking pictures and talking with people.

                         The ritual started with the Pulluvan singing and playing the ‘veena’ (one string violin) & Pulluvathi singing along playing the ‘Kudam’ praising God. 

Six Kanyakas (girls) who belong to that family who were chosen and went through a strict observance sat in different positions of the kalam with Pookula in their hand. Slowly the beat of the song changed and later the songs were praising the Snake God and Goddesses. The Kanyakas went through a religious trance state and started resonating the vibrations and movements like that of a snake!

K A N Y A K A S  in  A TRANCE STATE

 They used the Pookulas to wipe the kalam and these vibrations or mystic trance state continued for some time till they fell in the kalam. It was said that these Kanyakas act as Oracle and generally speaks to the onlookers during their trance state but unfortunately I couldn’t witness any such things. Once this kalam was wiped off, another kalam would be drawn and few other rituals would be performed. But this will be lasting till morning five. Since I saw the important parts of the ritual we returned to his home for a power nap.

Alarm buzzed and woke up to the sound of rains the next morning. Sitting in the portico, it was good to see the lush green paddy fields through the mist and drizzling rains. I thanked all for their hospitality and drove back home…

"I would treasure this forever because I seldom had such moments in my life. The moments that make you wish if the time stood still..."